
The Jazz Scene in Amsterdam
Finding My Tiana's Palace: Jazz Club Hopping in Amsterdam
Jul 8, 2024
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5
min read
Arts & Culture
Why do I love Jazz?
Being a musician myself, I’ve always loved being around music. I played a classical instrument but strangely my music taste ventured far from classic. Growing up I had an R&B and Rap phase (UK drill and trap. controversial, I know!), EDM phase, and Latin music phase. For winding down I'd start with classical yet always end up with jazz. I still recall a blissful childhood memory when I discovered I could transform my very own bedroom into an Italian cafe with a single YouTube jazz playlist.
The first time I heard authentic jazz was Bill Evans. It was the first few notes of the "You Must Believe in Spring" album. I was speechless. The sophisticated, soulful, warm, disruptive yet harmonious nature instantly captivated me. I was awed how someone could compose such a brilliant melody with the same seven notes. The alternations, breaks, chops – everything – was perfect. I admire the spontaneous nature of Jazz: unscripted, feel, not follow. There’s something charming about the immediate storytelling of improvisation. Every stage is one of a kind, shaped and shared in the moment. There are no "mistakes", with no milestones to outperform.

Jazz in Amsterdam
When I think of "jazz club" I immediately imagine Tiana's Palace from the Disney movie Princess & the Frog: grand wooden arches, glowing crystal chandeliers and everyone having a good time.
Amsterdam has a thriving live music scene with lots of jazz bars and venue halls. It’s amazing how timely they operate. 5pm hits and everyone's out on cafe sidewalks and tables nursing a wine glass or two. By 9pm there's long queues outside venues, people waiting to join the party.
During my study in Amsterdam I set a side quest to find the most authentic jazz club experience. My "Tiana's Palace" moment. Here's to my brief but extraordinary excursion.
Greenfield @Jazz Cafe Alto

A locals' favorite, there was already a queue outside the club when I arrived. Once I stepped inside it was super packed, with barely any room to move around but was nevertheless charming. A quaint, well furnished bar opened up the pathway to a floor of round, wooden tables surrounding the bright red main stage. Vintage posters of jazz legends crammed the dark green walls, dimly lit wall scones set the cozy, rustic mood.
Throughout the whole show the four performers had incredible chemistry. With one nod, hand gesture they knew what to do. Even within the tiny stage they managed to deliver such an exceptional performance. The bassist especially knew how to orchestrate the audience. For the first half it was a sit down, formal listening session while the second half people danced to the music.
It was amazing to see the energy the audience gave the musicians, vice versa. I loved seeing the small but special gestures like when someone asked a stranger to dance, when a couple romantically pulled the other closer with a scarf. This was what I wanted: Good music, good vibes. Everyone just having a good time.
Kim Verme @Bourbon Street

Compared to the previous place Bourbon Street catered more towards lyrical music. A disco ball illuminated from the center, antique guitars and accordions strung throughout. With the wider, higher stage and stand-and-sip culture felt like an American bar. The whole place was dimly lit, glowing with red and blue hues. The stage had these huge velvet red drapes, reminding me of theatre stages. Similar to the vibe the music they played were classic American songs. Unfortunately the "American bar" concept came with the full package, including the group of howling 6-foot grown men with beers.
The performance itself was enjoyable. The singer had a charming husky voice. It was quite amusing when the beer group started singing along to "Kung Fu Fighting" by Carl Douglas. Everyone was sipping, vibing to the music. My legs did feel sore from standing for the entire time but that's all part of the experience:)
Tribute to Chet Baker @Het Concertgebouw



Chet Baker. One of the best jazz trumpeter & singers of all time. How he managed to be good at both puzzles me. His fey, delicate tone in playing and singing makes his music so captivating.
The tall cream gold ceilings and luscious red carpet of Het Concertgebouw made me feel like a princess in a royal palace. One would think the grand and expansive seats had differing views of the stage yet even the furthest seats had a clear sight.
The stage lights changed color based mood of the song: blue for "Almost Blue", pink for "My Funny Valentine" etc. Trumpeter Jan van Duikeren was astonishing, especially with the soft parts and improv. Marcel Veenendaal's voice was ethereal and soothing, almost angelic. Based on the tempo and mood of the song I drew different scenes in my head: a man slowly treading home after a long day’s work, a lively party, or a lover whispering their confession to another.
Throughout the entire concert I couldn’t stop beaming. How lucky was I to experience live music of an former artist. I cherished every single second. As I stepped out the concert hall after the performance, I was greeted by a lovely pink and purple dyed sunset. Jazz and pink sunsets. With two of my favorite things in one day, this was easily the best night I had in Amsterdam.

Beethoven's Symphony No. 5 & Mendelssohn's Violin Concerto @Het Concertgebouw


Of course I had to revisit the Het Concertgebouw for a classical piece. Although I played a wind instrument, I like the sound of strings better. I love how the deep, harmonious chords melt together. Yet for this concert the flutist was spectacular. Her pitch and notes were on point. It was amazing how Marc Bouchkov managed to flick the violin strings effortlessly yet so precisely. It was my first time hearing the iconic Symphony No. 5 in person, so it was familiar yet refreshing. I had flashbacks of my brief orchestra days and I realized how much I've been missing out. That feeling of harmonizing with the whole body, hearing your instrument blend with the others. That rush of adrenaline when playing the peak notes or delicately ending a measure. Maybe I'll start playing again. I'm glad I came back for a classical performance.
Reflection
Overall this whole experience was a great opportunity to reflect how much I appreciate and am passionate about music. It inspired me to attend more live music back home. There's just something about listening to music with headphones versus listening in person. And who knows? Maybe I'll try a punk rock concert next time.
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